Tips on Pedding!

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Tips on Pedding!

Experience is the best teacher...

On this page I'll include some of my tips and tricks I've learned while doing my hobby. Where appropriate, I'll include steps or pictures to help clarify my explanations.

Please feel free to contribute your own tips - I'll post the best ones so everyone can see them.

Here's some tips!

Speed please!

Another cheap way to make you 'ped go faster is to change out the spindle to a different diameter one. There are diffferent size spindles designed to do different things. It's simple: a skinny spindle gives out-of-the-hole (or stop up to mid-range rpm) performance, but takes away from your top speed. A fat spindle does the opposite: gives you a higher top speed, but sacrifices the bottom end performance. Some common spindle diameters are (going from skinny to fat) are from: .675" (skinny), .705", .750", up to .800"(fat). You want a good cross-hatch pattern on the spindle so you can get traction, like on the ones made by Triton. The spindles made by Engine Trix are great spindles, but lack a cross-hatch pattern. The Engine Trix have a parallel pattern on them - good for drag-racing type of racing 'cuzz it breaks away at the start, but doesn't do much for hole-shots.
If you're really into doing jumps or just banging the heck out of your 'ped, then you should consider a bearing support for the rear. What this does is acts like a brace from the engine over to the other side. When you are landing after catching some air, you are putting a fat load on the spindle, which in turn might snap the spindle off the end of the crank - usually taking out the crank. That translates into big buck replacement parts. With the bearing support you are doubling the load absorbing capacity of the spindle since it is attached on both the engine end, and the opposite end of the spindle.


	List of Tips Racers tip: Shorten the handlepole by about 1.5-2.0 inches! It lets you throw the 'ped around a lot easier. Remove the handlepole by tapping out (with an appropiate size drift) the plastic pin in the hinge. Of course you'll have to remove the brake and throttle levers & cables. And that means cutting up the little padded area that the cables go under on the handle pole, clipping the plastic zip strip and the metal Oteker clamp. The safety spring and handle lock tube will come off also. Put the hinge in a vise, heat it up with a tourch to soften the epoxy so you can pull the handlepole off the hinge. Once it's cooled down you can use a tube cutter on the handlepole to shorten it up to the length you want. I used a tube cutter for a clean cut, but you can use a band saw or hacksaw. Clean up the burrs inside so it will slide back onto the hinge, apply new epoxy like JB Weld to the hinge and put the handlepole back on - make sure you have the hinge and handles lined up properly! Yee gads! Get that messed up and it's like having the alignment out on your car...always turning right or left to go straight - yuck! Put it all back together and you'll have a 'ped built for action! Yup, it's nice having a nosey dude prowling the pits & stealing ideas for ya, huh?

Hot Rod tip: Here's a great all around performance gain for the new style engine (G23-LH) from Eric Putney (from P.J. Scoots a Go-Ped dealer in Jacksonville, Florida). Deck the cylinder base about 20-thousandths. Eric says a lot of guys just take the gasket out and use a gasket sealer like Yamabond. That works, but it's better to mill off about 20-thousandths and use a stock gasket. The stock gasket is 20-thousandths already. It not only gives great bottom end (read: "holeshot") but will also give about 2-3 mph on top end. There is a down-side to this: if you are thinking about a stroker-crank, there will not be enough clearance. Eric says his shop does the milling for about $20. Shoot, for a 2-3 mph on top end for only $20.00 is in my kinda budget! Thanks Eric!

Here's a tip from the Go-Ped factory on how to get an extra bit more zip out of your 'ped: advance the flywheel 1/2 a key way. To do this you must 1st remove the fan cover, flywheel nut, and flywheel. (A 6mm bolt threaded into one of the two holes in the flywheel until it bottoms out against the case will do.) Next remove the keyway (a pair of dykes works best), and mark the position of the keyway on the end of the threads. Then put the flywheel back in the stock location by lining up the keyway with your mark. Then, rotate the flywheel clockwise half a keyway. Seat the flywheel on the crankshaft witha socket and hammer, then tighten the flywheel nut, and install the fan cover. If everything was done correctly, you should pick up a couple of mph as well as some bottom end! (By the way, 5 of the 7 factory modifieds used the new style motors - the G23 LH - and this includes the 1st and 2nd place Pro-Mod finishers!) Thank you Go-Ped Factory Guys for the tip!

Cops, get your ticket book ready: Eric in California writes - I found that if u remove that cheap muffler and turn it upside down and before you do that remove the cupholdings it adds about 2-3 mph but is a little louder. I'm a typically poor teenager 14 years old and if u stupid ped heads cant mix the oil very good and if it dies remove the gas from the tank then take a lighter on the tip of the spark plug that hits the piston then keep it there for 5 seconds then run it till it dies,it should start right away.

Dual engine setup from a SoCal stud: Well being a young stud (15 to be exact) i like to show off my goped to all the honeys. My go-ped had a cool design and everything but it was lacking more speed. So i looked around my neighbors garage and found a brand new weed wacker. I took it to my workstation (my room) and took the engine off. Then i got my go-ped and moved the tank ontop of the ped (where you latch the handle bars) then put the weed wacker engine where the gas tank was (i just drilled some extra holes on the go-ped so it would stay on because the glue wasnt working.) i has an extra spindle so i put that on the engine and put it on the tire and has the throttle connect to the existing throttle from the other engine. now i got a go-ped with 2 engines! now i get all the girls and race against my brothers friends cars. only problem was i couldnt keep the front wheel down on the ground. So i had to tie 45 pound wieghts on the handle bars so it would stay down. i will soon have more more tips and some pictures of my Thunder Ped! Make sure and ped safe...Always wear shoes if your planning on stoping with your feet (i learned that the hard way)! Toodles Derek Bomback (Torrance, California) [note from Je-Boy: With all this horsepower, you should also wear a jock with a steel cup...so you can stay a stud - instead of "Stumpy - the Wonder dude"!]